Howdy and thanks for looking at getting an older dog from us!
This is an "As Short As I Can Make It And Touch On Everything" info page, so please read everything and ask any questions about any of it for clarification. We have placed several dogs in the past with great success and much of that is due to the information below. Obtaining an older dog from us is a great experience because you get a dog that has been professionally socialized, trained, and normally shown before you even thought about getting a new companion. We struggled from a long time with placing our "oldies" but the idea that they can live out the rest of their life as loved companions with more one on one time without us compromising our young dogs is too logical. Dogs that aren't suitable to be rehomed are of course kept as our own pets and go on to be demo dogs, hiking companions, and so on. The special dogs: the ones that are great in so many situations, cause no issues at the house, are the easiest to have around are normally the ones we place when the time is right. Why? They're very agreeable and simple for us to own which gives us the utmost confidence that they will transition to a new home the easiest.
With that said, these are dogs that have been loved but treated as "working" dogs while in our care. They do not have free rein of the house, are used to a strong human leader, have a specific schedule they're used to both at the house and away. This means they need some help transitioning to the new home and title of "perfect pet." This process normally takes a month or so, but compared to about two years with a puppy, its hard to resist that time frame! Please remember to be patient with the new arrival and work them slowly into that household. The slower and more directly you work with them during this transition, the easier and faster they will figure it out. They've been trained to learn so they will when the answers are given in a logical order. So here's my helpful hints to ease this process.
1. Lots of "don't"s.
Don't invite the family/neighborhood/friends over: Just like when you get a puppy, you should keep things chill at your house for the first two weeks. Let the dog see the new home's schedule and allow them to be more of a spectator rather than a participant. When I get a new dog in for training, I keep it simple: Keep them in a crate, walk them on a leash, feed them when you want them to eat. Yes, its a lot of crate time, but they get a chance to check things out casually rather than being tossed into the mix.
Don't let them out of the crate without a leash: The biggest safety hazard with a new dog is them getting loose. Herding breeds in particular are susceptible for that and herding dog that had a strong leader (I.E, the dog you're looking at getting) are going to want to find their previous "person" so please, keep them on leash. Yes, in the house, in the yard, in the bathroom, etc. This also lets them bond faster to their family and it can be quite fun to allow them time to swap between people.
Don't brush/groom/roughhouse: These types of things may make sense to you to do, but upon leaving my house, they've had a full show groom so won't be needing any grooming. The first two-four weeks is a time for learning about the basics and sometimes grooming can be a little more stressful than they're wanting at the time. After the first two weeks, use your best judgment but establishing the "in, out, potty, food" routine is #1. Rough play can be misinterpreted by the dog as aggression as we don't play like that at our house. Give them time to figure these things out as a spectator, not a participant.
Don't ask them to do all their "tricks": Yes, your dog might have previously been a conformation dog, and obedience dog, and so on, but this first month is not the time to do that. Again, establish the routine and go from there. Once the dog seems settled and is actively looking for "information" (eye contact with you and seeming to want to interact more), then play the "Name Game." This is a game all my dogs have had and its super simple: have about 10 small pieces of great food (lunch meat or hot dog pieces are great). While on leash (right?), wave the food in front of their face if they're looking away and say their name. When they're looking at you, immediately give the cookie. Grab another cookie and repeat their name, IMMEDIATELY treat. Do this no more than 10 times in a row and then say "OK!" and go back about your day. Keep it low key and FAST. Training sessions should be quick and leave the dog going Wait, I want more! Once they're actively interacting and anticipating the "Name Game" you can add more exercises in, gradually building up to where they were previously. See the books listed below for ideas on where your dog is, games they know, and other things to do with them.
Don't switch foods: I'm ok with you swapping foods, but please wait until it is after the first two weeks and everything is going ok. The last thing you want is an upset tummy due to food switches while the dog is still learning the ropes.
Don't allow them to meet the other household pets until at least a week has gone by: Current pets will see this new pet as an "invader" and by keeping the new dog in a crate or on leash helps prevent issues with the family pet that has been living there previously. If you must have both animals out, put up a gate while you keep the new one on leash. After they have time to adjust to the smells and sounds of each other (and the fact that the newcomer isn't here to just steal food/treats/attention/toys from the previous dog, things will go smoother but all introductions should be done with both dogs on leash to prevent issues and preferably on neutral "turf" like a nearby empty parking lot with non-slip collars and nonretractable leashes (plain flat leashes) on both animals.
Don't allow children unrestricted access to the new dog: I do have a young son and therefore all the dogs are used to the idea of a child but they haven't been around a child that throws their arms around them, pokes and prods them, etc. Please keep the kiddos contained but DO allow them to help with things like training and feeding the dog to help the dog understand that they will get rewards from any of the family humans.
Don't ask/allow them to get on the furniture during the trail period: None of my dogs are allowed on the furniture at will and its normally where I do "manning down" exercises so they may be reluctant to come into the "human zone." Their place has been on the floor previously so it'll be hard for some of them to ignore this past training and until they're used to the "rules" of the new house, allowing them on the furniture should be the last new concept you introduce as it can lead to insecurities, possessiveness, and accidental aggression. Once they "get" the house rules, then you can start bending this one ;)
2. What does my dog know?
Well, to put it simply, your dog knows how to learn. What does that mean? It means that I've worked diligently to get them to focus on me when asked and to check in with me when I need them to or they need something/detect something is amiss. It may not seem like much, but this is a HUGE deal. How many times have you wondered how people get their dogs to work through distractions versus the people that cannot get their dog to listen to them even with huge chunks of steak in their hand? Simple: focus and motivation. Once you have those two things, you can teach most dogs anything. So your dog will be experienced in this concept and then normally recalls, sit (maybe on command, but normally as a default "hold" position with extended eye contact), down with or without a lure, stay/wait (doors, crate doors, on leash, etc), and some combination of advanced heeling/loose leash/conformation leash work or whatever disciplines your dog was trained/shown in previously. Many of these advanced maneuvers will probably not apply to your situation and if they do, you and/or your trainer will probably want to work them differently as many times they are specific to the trainer and their system but the dog will retain the "Oh I know this!" type of thinking when you reintroduce it.
3. What about toys and chewies and...?
Honestly, my dogs only get toys when I'm actively playing with them. After two $2000+ surgeries to remove toys from my dogs in the yard, I don't leave them laying about. I do use large rubber toys in the yards (Good/Bad (only) Cuz toys, Holee Roller Ball, Solid rubber balls/dumbbells) for some of the dogs and everyone gets turkey necks (raw) about 3-4 times a year. The rest of the time, I use Smoked Knuckle Bones. All the dogs love the bones, some like the toys and others do not. Ask me for more specifics on if your dog is a toy dog or not.
4. What treats do you use?
I use Zukes Mini Naturals - I normally use the Wild Rabbit flavor and Lean Pupperoni for training and bits of kibble for general things like tossing into the crate and quick training sessions.
5. Speaking of kibble, what food does my dog eat currently and what are you ok with them eating?
Right now your dog is on Victor Dog food (either the teal or red colored bags). This is an excellent but affordable food but I understand people have their own preferences so I just ask that they be kept on a food as good or better than what they are currently on. Refer to the Dog Food Advisor to get an idea of where any food you're thinking about feeding rates on their factual scale.
6. Where do your dogs sleep now? How do they spend the day?
My dogs all sleep in crates in a secure building or my home at night. No exceptions. There are too many ways a dog left unattended outside at night can get into trouble either with wildlife or humans and can easily go undetected for many hours if they're in trouble. During the day, I have two trustworthy dogs that are kept in my secure backyard, but all the others are kept in crates or large secure kennels depending on their exercise needs. Once I get home, I rotate the dogs through the yards and the house to make sure they all get house time and exercise time. All my dogs see the crate as their "bedroom" and go out in controlled groups with like minded dogs to exercise. During the weekends, they go to shows or run errands with us depending on the family activities.
7. What about flea meds, worming, vaccinations?
Your dog normally gets a weekly Capstar pill to stave off fleas, but 2014 has been a terrible year in Texas for them so this is the most medicine I've ever given for this purpose since 1999. I also give monthly baths normally with full brushing/grooms for all the dogs to maintain their skin and coat health. All the dogs are given heartworm medications every 45 days with an Ivermectin based wormer (Nuheart or Heartgurard). Other wormers are given as needed or every 6 months due to our country location and frequent traveling/hiking. Vaccinations are given at 5,7,9,12,16 weeks of age, then rabies at 6 months and 18 months then every 3 years after that. Annual booster shots are given to the dogs actively showing or leaving the property the most. I try to not over vaccinate when possible.
8. How does the dog ride in the car normally?
I have two vehicles that the dogs normally ride in and both have the dogs riding in 36" wire kennels. I like the Midwest SUV type of kennels as they are very strong in the event of a collision.
9. Speaking of crates, what size crate should I buy?
All my dogs are used to being in 36" crates and normally wire but they're fine in plastic Varikennel types as well. I like the "Retriever" brand kennels at Tractor Supply but any brand will do.
10. Do you use bedding in the crates?
No, the dogs normally tear them up or just shove them in the corner and won't use them. I do have some beds around the house, but they're not normally used by the dogs (their choice). If I HAVE to put something in the crate, I use an old towel and watch to make sure they don't chew it up. In the kennels and sometimes in the house, I use Kuranda beds and the dogs tend to use these more.
11. What if my dog doesn't like me right away?
Chances are, they won't. It takes a bit of time to adjust to a new environment and that requires understanding that the dog you saw at my house with ME won't be the same dog right away with YOU. Its just not reasonable to expect that. However, that's why I have a mandatory two week trial period (see your contract) before you make that decision. At the end of two weeks, not everything will be 100% but you should be able to see the direction you're going in. Just keep me updated and I will gladly help you with any questions as they come up during this time (and of course any time after!).
This is an "As Short As I Can Make It And Touch On Everything" info page, so please read everything and ask any questions about any of it for clarification. We have placed several dogs in the past with great success and much of that is due to the information below. Obtaining an older dog from us is a great experience because you get a dog that has been professionally socialized, trained, and normally shown before you even thought about getting a new companion. We struggled from a long time with placing our "oldies" but the idea that they can live out the rest of their life as loved companions with more one on one time without us compromising our young dogs is too logical. Dogs that aren't suitable to be rehomed are of course kept as our own pets and go on to be demo dogs, hiking companions, and so on. The special dogs: the ones that are great in so many situations, cause no issues at the house, are the easiest to have around are normally the ones we place when the time is right. Why? They're very agreeable and simple for us to own which gives us the utmost confidence that they will transition to a new home the easiest.
With that said, these are dogs that have been loved but treated as "working" dogs while in our care. They do not have free rein of the house, are used to a strong human leader, have a specific schedule they're used to both at the house and away. This means they need some help transitioning to the new home and title of "perfect pet." This process normally takes a month or so, but compared to about two years with a puppy, its hard to resist that time frame! Please remember to be patient with the new arrival and work them slowly into that household. The slower and more directly you work with them during this transition, the easier and faster they will figure it out. They've been trained to learn so they will when the answers are given in a logical order. So here's my helpful hints to ease this process.
1. Lots of "don't"s.
Don't invite the family/neighborhood/friends over: Just like when you get a puppy, you should keep things chill at your house for the first two weeks. Let the dog see the new home's schedule and allow them to be more of a spectator rather than a participant. When I get a new dog in for training, I keep it simple: Keep them in a crate, walk them on a leash, feed them when you want them to eat. Yes, its a lot of crate time, but they get a chance to check things out casually rather than being tossed into the mix.
Don't let them out of the crate without a leash: The biggest safety hazard with a new dog is them getting loose. Herding breeds in particular are susceptible for that and herding dog that had a strong leader (I.E, the dog you're looking at getting) are going to want to find their previous "person" so please, keep them on leash. Yes, in the house, in the yard, in the bathroom, etc. This also lets them bond faster to their family and it can be quite fun to allow them time to swap between people.
Don't brush/groom/roughhouse: These types of things may make sense to you to do, but upon leaving my house, they've had a full show groom so won't be needing any grooming. The first two-four weeks is a time for learning about the basics and sometimes grooming can be a little more stressful than they're wanting at the time. After the first two weeks, use your best judgment but establishing the "in, out, potty, food" routine is #1. Rough play can be misinterpreted by the dog as aggression as we don't play like that at our house. Give them time to figure these things out as a spectator, not a participant.
Don't ask them to do all their "tricks": Yes, your dog might have previously been a conformation dog, and obedience dog, and so on, but this first month is not the time to do that. Again, establish the routine and go from there. Once the dog seems settled and is actively looking for "information" (eye contact with you and seeming to want to interact more), then play the "Name Game." This is a game all my dogs have had and its super simple: have about 10 small pieces of great food (lunch meat or hot dog pieces are great). While on leash (right?), wave the food in front of their face if they're looking away and say their name. When they're looking at you, immediately give the cookie. Grab another cookie and repeat their name, IMMEDIATELY treat. Do this no more than 10 times in a row and then say "OK!" and go back about your day. Keep it low key and FAST. Training sessions should be quick and leave the dog going Wait, I want more! Once they're actively interacting and anticipating the "Name Game" you can add more exercises in, gradually building up to where they were previously. See the books listed below for ideas on where your dog is, games they know, and other things to do with them.
Don't switch foods: I'm ok with you swapping foods, but please wait until it is after the first two weeks and everything is going ok. The last thing you want is an upset tummy due to food switches while the dog is still learning the ropes.
Don't allow them to meet the other household pets until at least a week has gone by: Current pets will see this new pet as an "invader" and by keeping the new dog in a crate or on leash helps prevent issues with the family pet that has been living there previously. If you must have both animals out, put up a gate while you keep the new one on leash. After they have time to adjust to the smells and sounds of each other (and the fact that the newcomer isn't here to just steal food/treats/attention/toys from the previous dog, things will go smoother but all introductions should be done with both dogs on leash to prevent issues and preferably on neutral "turf" like a nearby empty parking lot with non-slip collars and nonretractable leashes (plain flat leashes) on both animals.
Don't allow children unrestricted access to the new dog: I do have a young son and therefore all the dogs are used to the idea of a child but they haven't been around a child that throws their arms around them, pokes and prods them, etc. Please keep the kiddos contained but DO allow them to help with things like training and feeding the dog to help the dog understand that they will get rewards from any of the family humans.
Don't ask/allow them to get on the furniture during the trail period: None of my dogs are allowed on the furniture at will and its normally where I do "manning down" exercises so they may be reluctant to come into the "human zone." Their place has been on the floor previously so it'll be hard for some of them to ignore this past training and until they're used to the "rules" of the new house, allowing them on the furniture should be the last new concept you introduce as it can lead to insecurities, possessiveness, and accidental aggression. Once they "get" the house rules, then you can start bending this one ;)
2. What does my dog know?
Well, to put it simply, your dog knows how to learn. What does that mean? It means that I've worked diligently to get them to focus on me when asked and to check in with me when I need them to or they need something/detect something is amiss. It may not seem like much, but this is a HUGE deal. How many times have you wondered how people get their dogs to work through distractions versus the people that cannot get their dog to listen to them even with huge chunks of steak in their hand? Simple: focus and motivation. Once you have those two things, you can teach most dogs anything. So your dog will be experienced in this concept and then normally recalls, sit (maybe on command, but normally as a default "hold" position with extended eye contact), down with or without a lure, stay/wait (doors, crate doors, on leash, etc), and some combination of advanced heeling/loose leash/conformation leash work or whatever disciplines your dog was trained/shown in previously. Many of these advanced maneuvers will probably not apply to your situation and if they do, you and/or your trainer will probably want to work them differently as many times they are specific to the trainer and their system but the dog will retain the "Oh I know this!" type of thinking when you reintroduce it.
3. What about toys and chewies and...?
Honestly, my dogs only get toys when I'm actively playing with them. After two $2000+ surgeries to remove toys from my dogs in the yard, I don't leave them laying about. I do use large rubber toys in the yards (Good/Bad (only) Cuz toys, Holee Roller Ball, Solid rubber balls/dumbbells) for some of the dogs and everyone gets turkey necks (raw) about 3-4 times a year. The rest of the time, I use Smoked Knuckle Bones. All the dogs love the bones, some like the toys and others do not. Ask me for more specifics on if your dog is a toy dog or not.
4. What treats do you use?
I use Zukes Mini Naturals - I normally use the Wild Rabbit flavor and Lean Pupperoni for training and bits of kibble for general things like tossing into the crate and quick training sessions.
5. Speaking of kibble, what food does my dog eat currently and what are you ok with them eating?
Right now your dog is on Victor Dog food (either the teal or red colored bags). This is an excellent but affordable food but I understand people have their own preferences so I just ask that they be kept on a food as good or better than what they are currently on. Refer to the Dog Food Advisor to get an idea of where any food you're thinking about feeding rates on their factual scale.
6. Where do your dogs sleep now? How do they spend the day?
My dogs all sleep in crates in a secure building or my home at night. No exceptions. There are too many ways a dog left unattended outside at night can get into trouble either with wildlife or humans and can easily go undetected for many hours if they're in trouble. During the day, I have two trustworthy dogs that are kept in my secure backyard, but all the others are kept in crates or large secure kennels depending on their exercise needs. Once I get home, I rotate the dogs through the yards and the house to make sure they all get house time and exercise time. All my dogs see the crate as their "bedroom" and go out in controlled groups with like minded dogs to exercise. During the weekends, they go to shows or run errands with us depending on the family activities.
7. What about flea meds, worming, vaccinations?
Your dog normally gets a weekly Capstar pill to stave off fleas, but 2014 has been a terrible year in Texas for them so this is the most medicine I've ever given for this purpose since 1999. I also give monthly baths normally with full brushing/grooms for all the dogs to maintain their skin and coat health. All the dogs are given heartworm medications every 45 days with an Ivermectin based wormer (Nuheart or Heartgurard). Other wormers are given as needed or every 6 months due to our country location and frequent traveling/hiking. Vaccinations are given at 5,7,9,12,16 weeks of age, then rabies at 6 months and 18 months then every 3 years after that. Annual booster shots are given to the dogs actively showing or leaving the property the most. I try to not over vaccinate when possible.
8. How does the dog ride in the car normally?
I have two vehicles that the dogs normally ride in and both have the dogs riding in 36" wire kennels. I like the Midwest SUV type of kennels as they are very strong in the event of a collision.
9. Speaking of crates, what size crate should I buy?
All my dogs are used to being in 36" crates and normally wire but they're fine in plastic Varikennel types as well. I like the "Retriever" brand kennels at Tractor Supply but any brand will do.
10. Do you use bedding in the crates?
No, the dogs normally tear them up or just shove them in the corner and won't use them. I do have some beds around the house, but they're not normally used by the dogs (their choice). If I HAVE to put something in the crate, I use an old towel and watch to make sure they don't chew it up. In the kennels and sometimes in the house, I use Kuranda beds and the dogs tend to use these more.
11. What if my dog doesn't like me right away?
Chances are, they won't. It takes a bit of time to adjust to a new environment and that requires understanding that the dog you saw at my house with ME won't be the same dog right away with YOU. Its just not reasonable to expect that. However, that's why I have a mandatory two week trial period (see your contract) before you make that decision. At the end of two weeks, not everything will be 100% but you should be able to see the direction you're going in. Just keep me updated and I will gladly help you with any questions as they come up during this time (and of course any time after!).